Clay 3D Printer
WASP 2040 — Ceramic Additive Manufacturing Guide
Introduction
▼What is Clay 3D Printing?
Clay 3D printing is an additive manufacturing technique that builds ceramic objects layer by layer from digital models. Unlike traditional sculpting, it allows you to create complex and intricate forms with exceptional precision — combining the material qualities of traditional ceramics with the design freedom of digital fabrication.
Our Machine: WASP 2040
We use the WASP 2040, an extrusion-based clay printer from Italian company WASP. It uses a screw/auger printhead to push clay through a nozzle at a controlled rate, building form layer by layer. Clay is delivered from a pressurised aluminium canister (Bolie gun) connected to a compressed air supply.
How the System Works
The machine has three key components: the rig (the WASP 2040 — a computer-controlled machine that moves the printhead in 3D space), the printhead (the auger mechanism that deposits clay), and the delivery system (pressurised aluminium container that feeds bulk clay to the printhead).
A screw/auger printhead uses the same gcode feed rate settings as plastic 3D printing — a motor turns the screw to push clay at a set rate. The settings are adjusted in PrusaSlicer for clay rather than plastic filament.
Applications
- Sculptural artworks and installations
- Functional pottery and vessels
- Prototype ceramic products
- Architectural ceramic components
- Complex geometric forms impossible with hand-throwing
- Parametric and algorithmically generated ceramics
Training Required
Clay printing requires comprehensive hands-on training. Contact us to book a session covering software, clay preparation, machine setup, and post-processing.
Hardware & Print Settings
▼Nozzle Size & Layer Height
The nozzle size determines the scale of detail possible and drives all other layer settings. Clay extrudes slightly wider than the nozzle itself — plan your settings accordingly:
| Nozzle | Actual Wall Width | Layer Height | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.6 mm | 1.8 – 2 mm | 0.6 mm | Fine detail, 20–30 cm objects (use double wall for strength) |
| 2 mm | 2.2 – 2.5 mm | 0.8 mm | Good starting size for 10–20 cm objects, single wall |
| 3.5 mm | ~5 mm | 1.2 mm | Larger machine prints, faster output |
Rule of thumb: Layer height is approximately one-third of wall width. Flatter layers (relative to wall width) give more structural stability. More rounded layers can look better aesthetically but risk delamination during drying.
Print Speed
- Small printers (WASP 2040): 25–30 mm/s print speed
- Large printers: 40–60 mm/s
- Travel speed: 30–50 mm/s — too fast can distort prints as the printhead moves between areas
- First layer: Slower than normal to ensure adhesion
Print Base
Plaster of Paris bats or unsealed wooden boards work well. Wet the board with a damp sponge just before printing so the first clay extrusion sticks. For objects requiring a base, roll out a clay slab to print onto rather than printing the base digitally — this avoids cracking from differential drying.
Z Hop Setting
Activate Z Hop When Retracted with a height of 1–2 mm. This lifts the nozzle during non-printing moves, breaking the clay extrusion cleanly between areas and preventing smearing.
PrusaSlicer Setup for Clay
▼Adapting Plastic Slicer Software for Clay
PrusaSlicer is designed for plastic 3D printing. We customise its settings to work for clay extrusion — the key difference is the material diameter and flow rate settings.
Material Diameter — The Critical Setting
The material diameter setting tells the slicer how much material is being fed. For clay this is set differently to plastic:
- WASP 2040: set material diameter to 1 mm
- WASP 40100: set to 2 mm
A larger number makes the software think more material is coming through — so the auger runs slower. A smaller number runs faster. If your flow rate (default 100%) seems way off, adjust the material diameter first before touching the flow percentage.
Recommended PrusaSlicer Settings (2 mm nozzle)
| Setting | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Layer Height | 0.6 – 0.8 mm | Use 0.8 mm with 2 mm nozzle |
| Initial Layer Height | 0.4 mm | Half normal height for better first-layer adhesion |
| Wall Thickness | 2 mm | Same as nozzle width / line width |
| Wall Line Count | 1 | Set to 2 or 3 for double/triple wall; Wall Thickness then greys out |
| Top/Bottom Thickness | 0 mm | Do not print a top or base (print onto clay slab instead) |
| Infill Density | 0% | No infill for clay printing |
| Print Speed | 25–30 mm/s | WASP 2040; 40–60 mm/s for large printers |
| Travel Speed | 30–50 mm/s | Too fast distorts prints |
| Z Hop When Retracted | ON — 1–2 mm | Breaks clay extrusion between moves |
| Material Diameter | 1 mm (WASP 2040) | Critical — see note above |
Saving Your Profile
Once you've configured your settings, save a named profile — e.g. Layer8_Nozzle2_Shell1. Use descriptive names that encode your key parameters so you can return to known-good settings. Do not overwrite the default Extra Coarse profile.
3D File Requirements
Wall thickness: Do not give your model a wall thickness in the 3D software. Draw just the path (a single surface). The wall thickness is defined entirely by the nozzle size and is set in the slicer. If you add thickness in your model, the slicer may try to print both an inner and outer wall.
Double/triple walls: Set Wall Line Count to 2 or 3 in the slicer — do not model this in your file.
Supported file types: STL, OBJ, 3MF, AMF, STEP/STP, SVG
Overhangs: Support structures generated by slicers don't work well in clay. Instead, model your own support — for example, a narrow 45° wedge under a chin or overhang that can be cut away once the clay stiffens.
Clay Preparation
▼Clay Consistency
Clay must be soft enough to feed through the system but firm enough to hold its shape as layers build up. Toothpaste consistency is the practical guide — the clay surface should look just moist, not wet or saturated.
Hard vs. Soft Clay
There's a temptation to use harder clay so the print doesn't collapse — but this creates more problems than it solves:
- Harder clay requires more pressure to push through the system
- Higher pressure squeezes water out of the mix, making the remaining clay even harder
- Very hard clay causes layers not to bond together — resulting in delamination or cracking during drying
Use soft clay at 4–5 bar pressure. If prints are collapsing, use a heat lamp or warm air to stiffen clay as you print — not harder clay.
Clay Shrinkage (Critical for Sizing)
Clay shrinks as it dries and again when fired. Shrinkage is greater in the vertical direction for 3D-printed forms (due to layer compression). As a guide when firing to 1220°C:
| Clay Type | Vertical Shrinkage | Horizontal Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|
| Stoneware | ~13% | ~8% |
| Porcelain | up to 20%+ | up to 16% |
Account for this shrinkage when designing your model — scale up accordingly in your 3D software before printing.
Drying & Post-Processing
▼Drying
As clay dries it shrinks. Uneven drying causes distortion and tension — at worst resulting in cracking. Allow objects to dry as evenly as possible:
- Most prints can be left to dry naturally in a room
- For forms with internal structures or infill, drape plastic sheeting over them to slow drying and equalise moisture
- Avoid placing in direct sun or near heat sources
Working Through the Ceramic Stages
- Green / wet clay — just printed; very fragile, do not disturb
- Leather hard — firm enough to handle, can be trimmed and refined; ideal point for surface work
- Bone dry — fully air-dried; ready for bisque firing
- Bisque firing — first kiln firing, removes remaining moisture, creates porous but stable ceramic
- Glaze firing — optional; apply glaze and fire again for a finished surface
Important Post-Processing Notes
- Hollow forms require drainage holes before firing — trapped air expands and can shatter the piece
- Printed bases can crack during drying — printing onto a porous plaster bat allows the clay to release as it shrinks
- Layers that aren't well-compressed can separate during drying — this is usually a clay consistency or speed issue
3D Modeling for Clay
▼Recommended Software
Blender
Recommended for clay printing. Developed for animation, it offers both mesh modeling and sculpting tools in one platform. Enormous tutorial community. Free and open-source.
Download BlenderBlender for Potters (Video Series)
Jonathan Keep's Blender tutorial series specifically for ceramics and pottery students: "Blender 2.91 for Potters and Ceramic Artists — 2021". A practical introduction to 3D modeling for clay printing.
Watch PlaylistPotterware
Slider-based ceramic design tool — no 3D modeling knowledge needed. Directly compatible with ceramic 3D printers. Ideal for pottery-focused students new to digital fabrication.
Visit PotterwareProcessing (Code-Based)
Open-source coding platform designed for visual artists. Can generate 3D mesh files or GCode directly. Dan Shiffman's Coding Train YouTube channel is an invaluable learning resource.
Visit ProcessingScan the World (MyMiniFactory)
Scanned 3D files of objects from major museums worldwide — V&A London, the Louvre, the Metropolitan Museum. Excellent source for forms to reappropriate or remix.
Browse CollectionAgisoft Metashape (Photogrammetry)
Create 3D models from 30–60 photographs of a real object. Photogrammetry techniques offer some of the most interesting results for clay printing. 30-day trial available.
Try AgisoftFile Formats Accepted
Export your model in any of these formats for use with PrusaSlicer:
.stl .obj .3mf .amf .step / .stp .svg
The slicer will generate a .gcode file — the language used by the WASP 2040 to control movement, speed, and extrusion. GCode can be opened in a text editor and, at its most basic, is not too difficult to read.
Frequently Asked Questions
▼What types of clay can be used?
Stoneware and porcelain work well. Clay must have the right plasticity for extrusion — toothpaste consistency is the practical guide. Clay that is too hard causes delamination; clay that is too wet collapses.
How do I account for shrinkage in my design?
Scale your model up in your 3D software before printing. Stoneware shrinks ~13% vertically and ~8% horizontally (fired to 1220°C). Porcelain shrinks more — up to 20% vertical and 16% horizontal. Measure a test piece and adjust your scale factor accordingly.
Can I print support structures?
Standard slicer-generated supports don't work in clay. Instead, design physical supports into your model — for example, a 45° wedge built into the model that can be cut away at leather-hard stage.
Why are my layers delaminating?
Usually a clay consistency issue (clay too hard) or layers not properly compressed (speed too fast, or layer height too high relative to wall width). Err towards softer clay and slower speeds. Also ensure layers are well-compressed — the layer height should be about one-third of the wall width.
Do I need to fire the printed object?
Yes. Printed clay objects require bisque firing and optionally glaze firing to achieve final strength and permanence. Unfired clay objects are fragile and water-soluble.
How long does a print take?
Significantly longer than plastic 3D printing — clay extrusion runs at 25–30 mm/s vs plastic at 60–100+ mm/s. A medium-sized vessel might take 2–4 hours. Factor in additional days for drying and kiln time.
My print is cracking while drying — what went wrong?
Uneven drying is the most common cause. Slow the drying down by covering loosely with plastic sheeting, especially for the first day or two. Avoid drafts, direct sunlight, or placing near heat sources.